Walla Walla was not particularly impressive so I was pleased to head out into the countryside again. I skirted College Place and then went west on Highway 12 past the 'Whitman Mission' historical site. Narcissa Whitman was the first white woman (along with her companion Eliza Spalding) to cross the USA overland. Their successful overland journey helped to persuade other families to follow in their footsteps. After 8 years their work came to an end when the mission was destroyed, and the missionaries killed, by the Cayuse indians. The Cayuse were afraid, quite rightly, that their lifeways were being threatened. This ended Protestant Missions in Oregon and set of a war on the Cayuse by the white pioneers of the area.

It was a very windy day and so even though it was very flat terrain, the going was not easy. just before getting to the Columbia gorge there was a lovely grassed park area next to the road where I stopped for lunch, another tin of cold beans. L&C had camped near this spot on their return trip in 1806. After lunch it was onwards where I finally reached the Columbia gorge. It was dramatic, as can be seen from the photograph below. The wind was very strong, in fact there were whitecaps in the river, heading upstream against the current! No wonder the Columbia is the wind surfing capital of the USA.

There was an outcrop next to the road called the 'Two Sisters' which had an interesting story associated with it ... unfortunately, I've forgotten what it was! It involved the 'Coyote' which in Indian mythology was involved in all sorts of creations and mischief.

I soon entered Oregon and I had to admit that I was surprised. The image of Oregon that I have is of greenery, lots of rain, etc. Not the dry, desolate desert of the west. I jokingly complained to a friend of mine from Oregon that he should have told me what it was like. He told me that most people have a similar misconception about Oregon.

In the distance I sighted Mt. Hood. This peak, along with other Cascade mountain volcanoes had been mapped and named by the Vancouver Expedition that entered the mouth of the Columbia river in 1792. The sighting of this mountain on 18 October 1805 was proof to the L&C expedition that they were approaching the Pacific Ocean. For the first time since they left North Dakota there was a landmark they could recognise. For 6 months they had been in unmapped territory.

It was a hard slog into the headwind and I was pleased to reach Umatilla. There was a huge dam -- the McNary -- across the Columbia just before the town which was very impressive. I cycled down to the tourist information centre which was at the foot of the bridge across the Columbia. They told me that the motels were back the way I came so it was uphill and into the wind again before I found a motel which had a great air-conditioner. The latter was much appreciated as it had been another exceptionally hot day. I grabbed a vegetarian hamburger and treated myself to an ice cream before crashing. Even though I had only travelled 61 miles, with the headwind it felt like 100. I was ready for a good sleep.